The 3-day tour in Cao Bang began with a vibrant morning in Hanoi Old Quarter, where life stirs to the rhythm of street vendors, morning commuters, and the alluring aroma of freshly brewed coffee mingling with street food. A hearty breakfast set the tone for the day, a steaming bowl of pho, layered with rich broth, tender beef, and fresh herbs, followed by a robust Vietnamese coffee that offered both warmth and energy. Fueled by the flavors and spirit of Hanoi, we embarked on a 6-hour journey toward Cao Bang. The road stretched ahead, leading us away from the city’s bustling energy to a quieter, greener expanse. Urban landscapes gradually gave way to lush countryside vistas, rolling hills, and glimpses of rural life, evoking a growing sense of anticipation.

By midday, we arrived in Cao Bang Vietnam and were welcomed with a lunch featuring regional specialties, a blend of flavors that showcased the freshness and creativity of local cuisine. Refreshed and eager to explore, we continued on to Phia Thap incense village, a place renowned for its traditional incense-making heritage. This village, with its Nung wooden houses blending into the rolling hills, was a sight to behold. In our homestay, a rustic and charming Nung-style house with warm wooden interiors and panoramic views of rice terraces and distant mountains, became our home for the night. Mr Kim and his family (host of homestay), dressed in the indigo attire of the Nung people, greeted us with warmth, making us feel instantly at home.
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In Phia Thap, I witnessed firsthand the intricate and storied art of incense-making. Artisans, with skills honed over generations, worked with precision and dedication, crafting each incense stick from natural ingredients such as cinnamon, star anise, and dried herbs. The fresh, soothing scents hung in the air as villagers worked side by side, chatting and laughing while preparing bundles of vibrant red incense. The sticks dried under the sun in beautifully arranged displays, and each step of the process, from grinding fragrant powders to rolling the incense, spoke of pride, patience, and a reverence for their cultural heritage.
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As the sun set, we gathered with Mr. Kim’s family for an intimate dinner, this is one of best things to do in Cao Bang. Tay cuisine, rooted in fresh, foraged ingredients, offered a unique blend of flavors such as lợn cắp nách, rau ngót rừng, or cơm lam (sticky rice steamed in bamboo tubes) a Nung specialty. As we ate, Mr.Kim shared stories of his ancestors and the Nung people’s harmonious relationship with nature, emphasizing their practice of taking only what they need. That first evening in 3 days trip in Cao Bang, sitting on the porch and gazing at the stars, I listened to Nung folk songs Mr. Kim’s daughter sang softly. The Nung people have an oral tradition that goes back generations, with songs and stories about their connection to the mountains, the rivers, and the spirits of the land. Wrapped in the warmth of their hospitality, I felt a profound peace, realizing I was stepping into a world much richer than I had anticipated.
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As I prepared to leave, Mr. Kim and his wife presented me with a small handwoven bracelet, a traditional blessing for safe travels and good fortune. Their kind smiles and heartfelt farewell made it difficult to say goodbye. As we drove away, I looked back to see them standing by the road, waving. The memories of Phia Thap, Cao Bang Vietnam and its timeless charm, the intricate art of incense-making, and the kindness of the Tay and Nung people, remained etched in my heart.
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The journey back to Hanoi was filled with reflection. The transition from Phia Thap’s peaceful rhythm to the busy energy of Hanoi reminded me of the contrasts that make Vietnam so captivating. After three days immersed in the culture, traditions, and breathtaking landscapes of Cao Bang, I returned to the city with a sense of enrichment and gratitude. This experience was not just about travel; it was a journey of connection, understanding, and the simple yet profound beauty of sharing moments with others. End of my trip 3 days in Cao Bang.
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